As I sat in the airport in Lima at 4:30am, I had to wonder what I was thinking to book a flight for 5am. I was headed to Cusco, the former capital of the Inca Empire.

3am – 5am is No Man’s Land. You should not still be awake from the night before and you should not be waking up to start your day. Everyone should be asleep during this time.

Cusco, Peru

Cusco was full of beautiful old buildings, with red roofs as far as the eye could see. Down the side alleys you could spot llamas and street markets of colourful textiles and food stalls.

Cusco street market

I invested $2.50 in a pair of alpaca gloves to keep my hands warm in the cold mountain nights. I learned to shower at mid-day, when the water and air temperature were at their warmest points.

I was impressed with the food in Cusco, and in Peru. I have to give a shout-out to the superb pumpkin soup and mind-blowing Ginger Lime Honey tea at Jack’s Cafe.

Pumpkin soup, Jack’s Cafe, Cusco

I also tried llama for the first time at the Inka Panaka restaurant, which was delicious. The menu del dia at most restaurants were great. I usually ordered a tomato and garlic salad, soup, lomo saltado (roasted vegetables, grilled meat and rice) and a drink or dessert. I did not have the chance to try the cuy al horno (roasted guinea pig), but it smelled amazing.

The Plaza de Armas was lovely, an open square around a fountain surrounded by centuries-old churches and cathedrals. By night the buildings were lit up.

Plaza de Armas by night, Cusco